Rachel's Dad
Chapter Eight: Hitchhiking Trips
Rachel had heard stories of her dad's hitchhiking trips. Occasionally he related one, usually in connection with a topic already being discussed. For instance, sometimes when the topic of travel and cost might be broached, he would remind whoever was in attendance that the use of one's thumb to travel long distances was reasonably efficient, and remarkably inexpensive.
Still, here she was, knee deep in his journals which he kept during those years of his youth, and as the trips unfolded. Additionally, there were his writings about those trips which he began compiling as part of his attempt to document his life, an endeavor that progressed but was never finished.
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I made three inter state hitchhiking trips, one in 1980 and two in 1981. The first occurred the summer after I moved from my parents home to live with a very nice woman named Mary Ellen, in Willow Grove, PA. The second one was to specifically visit a young lady who was part of our core group of friends after she moved to the Rochester, New York area. And the last was to Houston, TX to visit my good friends Mike who procured a job there after college graduation and Audrey, who had been dating Mike for a few years during his college days.
Upon reflection, it is difficult to imagine what was in my head at the time. A desire to continue the wanderlust I had started with the previous year's bus trips? The need to be different, and/or to get attention? A bit of cruel payback to my parents who, as their first child, over protected me as new parents often do? Perhaps even a search for myself, or for a meaning to life, although cliche as that sounds, was certainly in my head consistently during those years.
I kept many journals during my young adulthood, but, at this time, cannot find the one I kept for the first, and longest, hitchhiking trip which means that I am compiling the following summary while relying only on memory, perhaps useful for a based-on-a-true story novel but which most likely will product some fuzziness and convergence of events as opposed to just the facts, ma'am.
Before leaving, I learned to juggle thinking it might provide a useful prop to obtain rides, although I could never get past 3 balls at once and rarely actually juggled on the highways I traversed.
The longest trip, that summer of 1980, was also inspired by a man I met at my cousin's wedding earlier that year. Alan lived in Vail, Colorado, and when hearing of my desire to travel, told me I was welcome at his place if I ever got there. Again, this was before everyone owned a cell phone, and frankly, I don't recall contacting him before I left, but after a modicum of planning, off I went, west, with very few personal items, very little money, an Instamatic camera, a not very specific plan other than to go to Vail first, and a pocket 3" x 5" roadmap which depicted all the states and Canadian provinces. In my mind I guess I expected to get rides from truckers who might even utilize their CB radios to hand me off to another driver, heading west. That was to be the first of many assumptions that I would be wrong about.
I was able to reach West Virginia that first day, Wheeling, to be exact. As darkness settled, I realized that I would be sleeping outside that night, under the stars. As it turned out, the romance of such a thought was tempered by the reality, which was that I found an business store complex that was unoccupied at night, as they tend to be, and hunkered down at the doorstep of a veterinarian's office. I debated the wisdom of being close to an overhead light or finding a dark spot as if hiding, eventually choosing the former, for no logical reason.
During the 2nd day, I was able to reach western Ohio. At this point, I was picked up by a young man in a yellow VW beetle who was going to Las Vegas. I was able to convince him to alter his planned route a bit to take me to Vail, which he agreed to, I assume, to have the company. We were together all that day, then overnight, then most of the next day. At some point he asked me my last name; we were both shocked to discover that our 8 letter last names were exactly the same except for one letter, the second, mine a U, his an A. There were a few times during my days on the road that I imagined that there was some kind of fate or universal energy at work for me, and this was the first of those times.
He dropped me at Alan's door in Vail.
To my surprise, I wasn't the only young person using Alan's place as a way station. I spent a night or two there, sleeping on the living room floor among the other temporary visitors.
Having realized that it might be a good idea to have a tent on my travels, what one might call a V-8 moment, I borrowed one from Alan before heading off to the Grand Teton/Yellowstone National Parks.
I recall that I thought I might reach the parks in one day, but as it turned out I was forced to pitch my tent at a community park somewhere in Wyoming. Well, at least that is what the sign said, although it looked more like someone's extended yard that was designated a park just to reduce the taxes and upkeep. I slept spottily, but did learn how to put up my new tent.
The next morning, I set out again, and was picked up rather quickly by a man going to work. He asked me if I had eaten breakfast, which I hadn't, and then proceeded to stop at a local diner. Not only was he generous enough to pay for my morning meal, he told me to grab as much change as I could reach from his back seat after we dined and were on the road again. It was more than a few dollars, as most of the coins were quarters, and would not be the first time that a stranger bought me a meal, or gave me a bit of money.
Quick note here. If you have never been to Wyoming, at least at that time, the one stereotype that was absolutely true was that there are oil derricks all over the place. Nothing huge, just 10, 12 foot derricks bobbing their heads up and down as they removed oil from the ground. Additionally, outside of the few cities such as Cheyenne, Laramie, and of course Jackson Hole, there is a whole lotta space. Wide open space, but also still dotted with derricks.
Anyway, I arrived at the parks the afternoon after leaving Vail, snapping pictures of the Tetons with my Instamatic through the window of the car. And again, that night, the tent was of great use.
I stayed a few days, hitching around Yellowstone, which was quite easy, seeing the sights, meeting people, many my age. It was at Yellowstone that I met the Swansons, (see Chapter Eleven.) It was also at Yellowstone that I got a sunburn on my face, fairly serious, as I made the typical tourist mistake of lounging in a hot spring for a considerable length of time, without sunscreen. To be honest, I didn't pack sunscreen so it wasn't like I forgot to use it, but again, times were different then and sunscreen wasn't used as regularly as today.
The ride back "home" was uneventful, although like the rides I accepted throughout my travels, I didn't always take the most direct route, instead sometimes choosing to just be inside a car going in the general direction, as opposed to stranded on the side of the road.
I relaxed for a couple of days in Vail, then decided to go all the way west, to California. I can't say that I hadn't planned that all along, but it is also true that never having hitchhiked before, I did not necessarily believe that I might actually be able to go that far, east coast to west coast. But, the quick trip to Yellowstone, in addition to the bevy of nice people I had met already, convinced me to try.
I left Vail, again, naive, if not determined.
For those of you who haven't driven across America, as opposed to flying overhead, the lands between western Colorado and western Nevada are desolate, could even be called dangerous, if you get stranded, or lost. Of course, I was clueless, so off I went.
Fortunately, just outside of Grand Junction, Colorado, I was picked up by a young man going to the Lake Tahoe area in Nevada, which meant that I would need just one ride to cross Utah and Nevada. Unlike my ride from Ohio to Vail, this driver was not adverse to drinking as we talked and traveled.
And did we drink.
While I was not acquainted with 3.2 beer before the trip, I soon became very familiar with it. Good news was that you can consume more than would be typical of a 5% beer. Bad news is that from the afternoon, through the next day until we arrived in Provo, Utah, we drank the good part of a case.
While that night wasn't the first that I would spend sleeping in a car with my head against the passenger side window, it was the only night I spent sleeping in a car perched on 2nd base in a baseball field in a community park. When we awoke with the sunrise the next day, we hurriedly sped off the field and back on the road, laughing, quietly, due to our hangover, but still laughing.
As I have mentioned more than once, I never considered before embarking on this trip, about such mundane issues like where I would sleep, where and when I would eat, what I would do if I got stranded, how and where I would shower, not to mention where I might find a bathroom. To be honest, I guess I thought like Forest who, when asked about his running jag, said, "when I got tired I slept, when I got hungry I ate, and when I had to go, you know, I went". But, in retrospect, I'll be damned if I remember actually going.
From the Reno, Nevada area I was fortunate enough to get a ride to San Francisco where I did some sight seeing with the driver who brought me there. The Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, and just walking around the city. At this point, I parted from my newest transportation buddy, and decided to head to Los Angeles.
I had been to the LA area once before, as part of my two week bus ride the year before where I stayed with people that were somewhat related to me. I am fuzzy on the details but I do remember being picked up and eventually dropped off at the bus station and that the gentleman who did so was a big Dodger fan.
The other time I was there, a few years later, was when I was fortunate enough to attend the 1984 Olympics, during which I went to Dodger Stadium to see a few baseball games associated with the Olympics. (More on that trip and my 1976 Olympic adventure later.)
As sometimes occurs when hitchhiking, I didn't make it to LA. Somewhere near Salinas, California, I was picked up by a man driving a rather old, somewhat worse for wear, Cadillac. I climbed into the back seat and was immediately struck with the knowledge that there were already two other hitchhikers in the car. The driver could have been the actor in the Marlboro cigarette commercials of the day; cowboy hat, sun weathered face, cigarette dangling from his mouth.
After a bit, we arrived in Coalinga, California. Collectively, we were told by Marlboro Man that he had business in town, and we could hang out and wait for him or be on our way. The other two guys, who it turned out were hitching together, departed while I decided to wait for further options.
When he emerged, he had good news and bad news. The bad news was that he could not conclude his business yet, but we could go to a local bar and have a few drinks while we waited. The good news was....I guess there really wasn't good news from my perspective, as I wouldn't be getting any closer to my destination, but as Coalinga was no longer on the way to LA, I needed a new direction anyway.
We walked to a near by bar, and must have looked a pair, Marlboro Man and long-haired hippy guy. But soon we were laughing and chatting as if our relationship wasn't just a few hours old. As time went by, two things became clear. First, that he would not be able to finish the business he was hoping to wrap up, which, as it turned out, was to be paid for some electrical work he had done. Second, that we were getting drunk. As the empty bottles piled up, we ate some food to help absorb the alcohol, but after all those 3.2 beers I had consumed earlier in the trip, I was not ready for that many full strength beers.
When he got up to make a phone call, I started wondering what I was going to do for shelter as darkness was well on its way. Of course, being drunk, the urgency of the matter wasn't quite as compelling as it probably should have been.
About fifteen minutes after he returned to the table, a woman strode into the bar, walking straight towards us, shouting rather loudly, and in a manner which bespoke anger.
"What are you doing?", she began. "You're not bringing another stray home!" she exclaimed. "Remember what happened last time?"
I was stunned, while Marlboro Man did not respond. She sat down at the table, in as aggressive a manner as I had ever witnessed, and began the questions and accusations again, although with less volume. It took a while, but a few beers for her later, the tension had lifted. To this day, I can't remember Marlboro Man's name, but I will never forget his wife, Wanda.
Anyway, they invited me to stay with them, on a hunting ranch that they managed outside of Coalinga, California. Of course, first we had to get there. I was chosen to drive the Cadillac while following Wanda in her car, as Marlboro Man was wasted. Fortunately, I was able to keep her in view as we maneuvered out of town and into the nearby hills. I say hills because it was dark and all I knew was that we were in a constant upwards direction along switchbacks that seemed no wider than one car width, the rocks and trees of the hill to my left, darkness to my right. It was only when I was eventually taken back into town to continue my travels, that I realized just how dangerous the road had been, and how lucky I was to have navigated it successfully.
I stayed with them about a week sleeping in the bunk house that was used for the hunters who came to shoot the wild animals that roamed within the boundaries of the ranch. There were no booked hunts while I was there, so I was the only occupant for that week. It was very hot every day. I lounged on the property, reading, writing, sleeping. After a few days I got the impression that I could stay at long as I wanted, having ingratiated myself with Wanda, which I guess meant that I hadn't stolen anything and run off, as had, apparently, a previous stray. I also gathered that they had a son but were estranged, which explained Marlboro Man's penchant for providing transportation to strange young men.
Despite the ease at which they allowed me to live, no demands on my time other than conversation, I thought it best to leave when Marlboro Man told me he had to go into town and stay for a few days as he had been hired for his electrician's skills. He gave me the choice to accompany him to start on my way, or stay with Wanda until he returned. Wanda did not encourage me one way or the other. I decided to be on my way and received an extended hug and a bag with some food for the road from Wanda, then a hearty handshake and good wishes from Marlboro Man when we separated in town.
For a few years I wrote letters to them and sent Christmas cards but never received anything back. I often wondered if they found that replacement son at some point.
Three years later there was a pretty serious earthquake that struck the town, causing $10 million in damage, injuring 94 people but with no fatalities. The downtown area where I had drank multiple beers with my two new friends was severely damaged. Total destruction, 309 single family homes and 33 apartment buildings, major damage, 558 single family homes, 94 mobile homes and 39 apartment buildings and minor damage, 811 single family homes, 22 mobile homes, and 70 apartment buildings. I knew that their ranch was quite a ways from the center of town but still sent silent good wishes their way for a few weeks after reading of the earthquake.
During my stay, I had decided to head towards Yosemite National Park at some point although, to be honest, I wasn't sure if I would be returning to Coalinga or going to some other not yet determined destination. It was to be the first of a few decisions that I made, to keep on keeping on in this case, that would change the course of my life, even though I wasn't necessarily cognizant of it at the time.
